Wassaic 69-51 Light Rescue

[markmets415 524]

The fire commissioners at their meeting on Wednesday gave approval to start the process of upgrading some compartment space, a possible re-chassis as we have had issue with the current 6.0 liter motor mainly the turbo, changing the lighting from strobes to LED's. The unit currently has a 15KW Westerbeke diesel on board generator, a full compliment of hydraulic extrication tools, paratech stabilizers, a 4 head light tower and several others items as pictured below. I am looking for some input from the site to throw out some ideas and what hand tools guys have found that work other than the basic items (halligan, etc) how we can organize the compartments better and so on. Basically the rear passenger and driver side compartments can be gutted and made higher, there is about 15" of dead space above the roll up doors to make these much higher. I was thinking of changing the upper shelf in the center transverse compartment to be a roll out like the lower one. We are surely in need of new cribbing, what are you using? (photos if you can). See photos below of the current unit and please anything you can offer is greatly appreciated, thanks in advance. This may help, its a 2003 F-550 Rescue One!

Mark

Edited October 18, 2013 by markmets415

[markmets415 524]

compartments that need reworking, we'd like to have the paratech system set up so the arms and plates as well as the straps are all organized instead of thrown inside a bag (shown in the Scott black bag with the EMS items

Edited October 18, 2013 by markmets415

[markmets415 524]

hydraulic tool compartments, with on board pump as well as a portable pump, 2 cutters, 3 rams, 1 spreader

[markmets415 524]

other compartments, again anything you guys see, please comment, we are looking for ideas to make this unit more efficient

Edited October 18, 2013 by markmets415

[markmets415 524]

more, the last photo shows the side receiver for the 8000 lb. portable winch, there is a receiver on all four sides of the rescue

Edited October 18, 2013 by markmets415

[markmets415 524]

a few last ones

[markmets415 524]

ok that's all, so as I said, any input is greatly appreciated and welcomed, negative or positive, it's all good

[x635 4,066]

Wow! You sure do carry a lot on the rescue! I'm glad you got the approval for the updates, hopefully the firehouse will be next ;-)

If you're going to re-chassis, a Ford F-550 extended cab would give some more room to store turnout gear, SCBA's, and EMS supplies in a climate controlled area right where they are needed and free up compartment space- and probably still fit in the bay.

Also, wheel well compartments, an absorbent hopper up top, and a PTO generator may save space too. Replacing the light tower with LED floodlights would lessen the need for power.

As far as aesthetics, a BRAT bumper would look awesome and probably give some more space. Oh, and those really cool warning lights mounted under the mirror like on 69-12

And, as you've shown and proven to me, the guys at the BRAT shop can fabricate anything the mind imagines!

Just my worthless useless 2 cents.

[markmets415 524]

Wow! You sure do carry a lot on the rescue! I'm glad you got the approval for the updates, hopefully the firehouse will be next ;-)

If you're going to re-chassis, a Ford F-550 extended cab would give some more room to store turnout gear, SCBA's, and EMS supplies in a climate controlled area right where they are needed and free up compartment space- and probably still fit in the bay.

Also, wheel well compartments, an absorbent hopper up top, and a PTO generator may save space too. Replacing the light tower with LED floodlights would lessen the need for power.

As far as aesthetics, a BRAT bumper would look awesome and probably give some more space. Oh, and those really cool warning lights mounted under the mirror like on 69-12

Just my worthless useless 2 cents.

The fire district started a new building fund last year and that is a hot topic at this point, why pay the fire company rent each year when a new building can be built, the fire company does have another piece of property centrally located within the district outside of town but its a mixed bag of opinions as if this is a good spot to build plus there was some logs and debris placed there as fill which for a lot is ok but add a building on top well that's another story

Agreed on the chassis if replaced it will be at least an extended or crew cab, just for the extra space.

The speedy dry hopper was kicked around Monday at our first unofficial meeting.

I cannot foresee the replacement of the generator, its just a large cost factor when there really isn't anything wrong with the current one.

We are always excepting applications and I am sure the apartments in Wassaic are cheaper than where you are

Edited October 18, 2013 by markmets415

[FFBlaser 24]

Step 1: Take all the mounts shelves hardware etc.. out and replace with new stuff.

Step 2: Install slide out tool boards.

Step 3: Rhino Line EVERYTHING (a can of the generic stuff costs less than 10 bucks)

Step 4: Replace all of the halogen lights with LED lights, Preferably M Series light heads. the guys at elightbars.org will have some awesome input for you. Make sure there is no amber to the front too. getting rid of the halogen lights will reduce amp draw.

Step 5: go to the lumber yard, buy 2x4s, 4x4s etc... Cut to length... varnish so they last long... attach webbing

Step 6: Build your compartments and mounts around the equipment you have.

Step 7: Put the stuff you lose the least on the roof.

Step 8: Repaint the white and the Blue. I love your color scheme.

[x129K 1,393]

I agree on utilizing the roof for storage.

Long 4 x 4's.....additional stokes...Little Giant ladder...a few 6 foot hooks (yes, useful in extrication and car fires)...

[bad box 371]

Avoid varnishing the cribbing, it can become slick when wet which can result in the load slipping.

Use caution when adding storage ontop of the rig so as not to make it top heavy which can be a vehicle handling hazard.

Be mindful of the weight of any new / additional equipment that you add to the rig as it can affect the unit's braking ability.

Best of luck with the refurb!

[markmets415 524]

I agree on utilizing the roof for storage.

Long 4 x 4's.....additional stokes...Little Giant ladder...a few 6 foot hooks (yes, useful in extrication and car fires)...

Dan there are two stokes stowed together there, lol we'll have more hooks then members, agreed on the little giant ladder, we won't be using the top, the tower light is there and the only thing changed there most likely is the heads to LEDs.

[meat441 43]

Maybe the first thing that should be investigated is? What will be the PAYLOAD CAPACITY of the new Chassis, including the current remounted compartment box?

[PCFD ENG58 1,085]

How about a new Mack Tiatin chassis for the light rescue

[PEMO3 523]

Thanks for sharing. Very progressive design and layout. This rigs seems to be just as capable as a "heavy rescue" by obtaining a smaller footprint, turning radius and access options.

[markmets415 524]

Are those turn signal indicators in the back and the TA LED? If not, make sure you upgrade them to LED.

The brake lights, turn signals and arrow stick on the rear are all LED's

[markmets415 524]

Maybe the first thing that should be investigated is? What will be the PAYLOAD CAPACITY of the new Chassis, including the current remounted compartment box?

Already in the works, getting all the home work on a new chassis, the current chassis only has 7000 miles on it so I for one tend to think a re-chassis is not needed, just some work on the motor, I have been told there are some kits or upgrades to the 6.0 liter that would cost around 5K, I am not a mechanic so if anyone out there knows about this please share, thanks!

Edited October 19, 2013 by markmets415

[markmets415 524]

Thanks for sharing. Very progressive design and layout. This rigs seems to be just as capable as a "heavy rescue" by obtaining a smaller footprint, turning radius and access options.

Thank you, yes for a small rescue it is was pretty well equipped and outfitted, we've just changed a few things to other pieces and would like to do some upgrading of a few compartments to make it a little more user friendly and organized. SIGNMAN here on BRAVO was our committee chair on this and also our tanker so I must give him props.

Edited October 20, 2013 by markmets415

[x635 4,066]

I would think a lot of it depends on how long you plan to keep the vehicle. A current model Ford F-550 or International Terastar would be able to handle mostly anything you could put on there, as well as be compatible with the chassis you already have. And give you another 20 years. Also, would upgrading the engine give you a warranty, and would the transmission be able to handle it? And would the current braking system on the current model chasis be able to handle the added weight?

Then you can slap a pickup bed on the old chassis and make it a Utility or Fire Police vehicle. .

A question from my big mouth....is the current rescue 4x4?

[markmets415 524]

I would think a lot of it depends on how long you plan to keep the vehicle. A current model Ford F-550 or International Terastar would be able to handle mostly anything you could put on there, as well as be compatible with the chassis you already have. And give you another 20 years. Also, would upgrading the engine give you a warranty, and would the transmission be able to handle it? And would the current braking system on the current model chasis be able to handle the added weight?

Then you can slap a pickup bed on the old chassis and make it a Utility or Fire Police vehicle. .

A question from my big mouth....is the current rescue 4x4?

Yes Seth it is 4x4

[meat441 43]

If your keeping the current chassis what is the PAY LOAD Capacity?

[meat441 43]

Maybe I should explain myself better. Especially while owning a light rescue unit, knowing the PAYLOAD CAPACITY will allow you to figure out how much equipment can be carried on this vehicle. Weight is a major factor as apparently your motor is finding out. Weigh your current equipment. Then figure how much equipment and changes would be allowed. Pretty lights and paint jobs don't make the rescue. But efficient equipment, training and personnel is what makes a great rescue unit.

Also, can you give a detailed list of equipment currently on the rescue. I do have CONCERNS with certain items. But will explain with a list provided by you.

Keep safe and smart.

[bad box 371]

I am looking for some input from the site to throw out some ideas and what hand tools guys have found that work other than the basic items (halligan, etc) how we can organize the compartments better and so on. See photos below of the current unit and please anything you can offer is greatly appreciated, thanks in advance.

Mark

ok that's all, so as I said, any input is greatly appreciated and welcomed, negative or positive, it's all good

Just a couple of tool suggestions Mark. First I would remove the red colored prying tool that is mounted on the right side in one of the compartments (its fork is poorly designed ... too straight and too thick) and replace it with a Fire Hooks Unltd. 30" Pro Bar:

http://firehooksunlimited.net/probars.html

I would also suggest adding a griphoist as well as several sizes of fabric and cable slings for moving heavy loads (much stronger than a basic come along - excellent for rescue work).

http://www.torqhoist.com/show_unique_product.php?product_id=105

[markmets415 524]

Just a couple of tool suggestions Mark. First I would remove the red colored prying tool that is mounted on the right side in one of the compartments (its fork is poorly designed ... too straight and too thick) and replace it with a Fire Hooks Unltd. 30" Pro Bar:

http://firehooksunlimited.net/probars.html

I would also suggest adding a griphoist as well as several sizes of fabric and cable slings for moving heavy loads (much stronger than a basic come along - excellent for rescue work).

http://www.torqhoist.com/show_unique_product.php?product_id=105

Exactly the input I am looking for, thanks it's much appreciated

[markmets415 524]

Maybe I should explain myself better. Especially while owning a light rescue unit, knowing the PAYLOAD CAPACITY will allow you to figure out how much equipment can be carried on this vehicle. Weight is a major factor as apparently your motor is finding out. Weigh your current equipment. Then figure how much equipment and changes would be allowed. Pretty lights and paint jobs don't make the rescue. But efficient equipment, training and personnel is what makes a great rescue unit.

Also, can you give a detailed list of equipment currently on the rescue. I do have CONCERNS with certain items. But will explain with a list provided by you.

Keep safe and smart.

The vehicle is not overloaded and under it's payload, the Ford 6.0 liter has had issues with the turbo in many rigs and ours is not an isolated thing, so that issue has nothing to with what we are carrying.

http://www.autoblog.com/2005/12/16/fords-power-stroke-diesel-causing-major-problems/

I will gather a list of what is on the rig and post it, I am interested in seeing what your concerns are, thanks in advance.

As far as pretty lights, paint and training part of the comment I know (hopefully) was made as a generic statement but if you know me I am very proactive especially when it comes to training and pushing beyond the so called "standard". I would say for a very small rural department that's located in an area without hydrants we have a pretty modern fleet of vehicles that not only perform well for US but is utilized often by our surrounding neighbors on mutual aid, we have not just stuck to the "traditional" ways of doing things and have embraced new technologies, researched items extensively and try to give our citizens the best possible protection we can.

Edited October 20, 2013 by markmets415

[meat441 43]

Sorry if I am blunt about things but I love rescue. It was my EMS career for 30 years. 25 on EMS/Rescue. Don't get upset.

PLEASE, do away with all that, what I call SCRAP WOOD. There is nothing standardized about it. 2x4s, 4x4s and 6x6s cut to a standard of 18". Also, cut 18" Wedges out of 4x4s to fill the gaps. DO NOT varnish or paint. That will create a slippery surface. It will also cover-up any cracks beginning in the wood. Cmon everyone? How much does it cost for wood cribbing? Someone getting hurt because no one could see the splitting occur? Place your cribbing in Milk Crates. You can also use to save money, SEAT BELTS cut for handles at the end of the cribbing. I saw in one of your pictures a cut that was used for drilling. Cut the Seat Belts out. Guess how much it costs to make cribbing handles? NOTHING. And they are very strong. Use washers to secure them to the ends.

Oh dam! the wife is yelling. Have to go. Be back later. LOLL

[markmets415 524]

Sorry if I am blunt about things but I love rescue. It was my EMS career for 30 years. 25 on EMS/Rescue. Don't get upset.

PLEASE, do away with all that, what I call SCRAP WOOD. There is nothing standardized about it. 2x4s, 4x4s and 6x6s cut to a standard of 18". Also, cut 18" Wedges out of 4x4s to fill the gaps. DO NOT varnish or paint. That will create a slippery surface. It will also cover-up any cracks beginning in the wood. Cmon everyone? How much does it cost for wood cribbing? Someone getting hurt because no one could see the splitting occur? Place your cribbing in Milk Crates. You can also use to save money, SEAT BELTS cut for handles at the end of the cribbing. I saw in one of your pictures a cut that was used for drilling. Cut the Seat Belts out. Guess how much it costs to make cribbing handles? NOTHING. And they are very strong. Use washers to secure them to the ends.

Oh dam! the wife is yelling. Have to go. Be back later. LOLL

Not upset at all, and I agree 100% most of our cribbing is way past its usefulness and clearly needs to be upgraded and replaced, great idea with the seat belts, we have three cars at the station now, I think I shall take a trip there and see if I can get the seat belts while they are still there. We used to always use old pieces of 5" or 3" to place over with cut ends of the posts but I see they are now missing off the rescue, time for some more of those it seems too, they never cost anything either as we used hose that had failed the yearly testing.

[WHarley3 23]

Do you guys have lifting Vetter airbags?

[meat441 43]

My wife is happy now. LOLL

Getting back to cribbing.

6x6s give you a better base to work with and fill between the auto and ground quickly. Then you can decide if 2x2s, 4x4s or wedges can fill the gaps. By the looks of things, you can place about 8 crates of cribbing on half of that tray. No walking around the truck to grab what you need. Pull the tray to what ever side and there you go. YOU CAN NEVER HAVE ENOUGH CRIBBING.

Try putting your Paratec struts together. Place 1 on each side of the rescue transverse tray, driver side and passenger side next to cribbing. If they are too long using your extensions, remove the smallest extension and keep the V cap at the top of the strut. Your V cap will be used the most for vehicles on there sides or change to a piercing cap. It's easier to add a small extension to the strut if needed. Half the battle with the struts is over. Pre-connected. Also be sure your RATCHET STRAPS for the struts are set to go. Clip to strut and clip to vehicle, open ratchet and then just pull the strap to make it tight. ALL PRE-SET. 2 straps, 2 extra cones and 1 extension can be placed in 2 more milk crates. 1 on each side of the rescue. Much easier. More later on stabilization. I have to eat. LOLL