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robert benz

Training Tips, Tricks, and Proven Shortcuts

61 posts in this topic

I am asking for input for this topic. What I am looking for is a list of tips that we cant find in the books that work on the fireground. this could help everybody at sometime in thier career. No particular order at this point, if you have something share it with the rest of the crowd.

GROUND LADDERS

All ground ladders should be marked at the balance point for one man carries

Whoever has the Butt / foot of the ladder in a 2 man carry should anounce it so as you are approaching the building there is no confusion as to where it should be placed, and also so it cant get put upside down. That could never happen lol

exmrvfc, x635, CLM92982 and 6 others like this

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EXACTLY !!!

With all of the other noise on the website lately, it is refreshing to see a post like this. This type of stuff is why I joined this forum years ago........

GROUND LADDERS.

Too often you see the Ground Ladders on an engine (usually a 24' extension & 14'roof) with the roof ladder on the outside and the extension ladder on the inside. The better way to go is to have the 24 on the outside and the roof on the inside. the 24 is the one you will use most of the time, and if you need the roof ladder, you will need to have a way to get up there first, hence the 24.

Also, with the 24 (or any extension ladder for that matter, on any rig). A lot of time you see the halyard tied around the lower rungs of both the bed and the fly section. All this has done is to turn the ladder into a fixed length ladder, and when needed to raise, you need to stop and untie the knot of the halyard before proceeding. Better way to go is to tie the halyard to the Bed section only. This way no need to untie anything when you need to raise it. Pull the halyard and the fly goes up. Saves a few seconds, but that could make the difference.....

jd783 likes this

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Bring a hook

One of the first thing you hear on the radio right after the fire is knocked down is "we need a hook". As you get off the rig and you take your assigned tools, grab an extra hook or two and leave them near the door of the building before you go in.

Knife

Have you ever gone into your pocket to grab your knife only to find that either it is not there (because the firehouse fairy "borrowed it") or it is covered with tar from the time you used it??? Try carrying a razor blade, it's cheap (so it's less appealing to the firehouse fairy) and the blades are easily swapped out so you can always ensure that your will have a sharp blade.

I agree this is the kind of talk that should be on this site, not my truck is bigger than your truck bullshit.

BFD1054 and x129K like this

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At a recent search and rescue drill i found that if you take a dog leash in with you and your partner it works well with the search. you clip one end of the leash to your partners pack and put your hand through the loop of the leach at the other end. this gives you a 5-6 foot distance between both of you but also gives you the safety that is you don't feel tension on the leash your holding, you know something has happened with your partner.

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When someone is near you trying to transmit on their portable radio, cover yours to cut down on feedback.

Keep your turnout gloves in your bunker pants pocket. This way when you put on your waist straps, they're not hard to get at.

LABEL EVERYTHING! Put your name, ID#, initials, etc. on your helmet, hood, each glove, coat, pants, each boot, etc.

When pushing down a ceiling after opening a roof, push down with the handle of the hook, not the head. This way when you do break thru, you won't have the tool slip away. (Been there...done that).

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Thanks Bob for a useful and constructive post. Seth asked what this site needs (should be) and this is the type of stuff that we need. Useful info from the guys that have been around a while and are willing to share it.

On a side note, there is at least a couple of jokes about putting a "dog leash on your partner"!!

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I am asking for input for this topic. What I am looking for is a list of tips that we cant find in the books that work on the fireground. this could help everybody at sometime in thier career. No particular order at this point, if you have something share it with the rest of the crowd.

GROUND LADDERS

All ground ladders should be marked at the balance point for one man carries

Whoever has the Butt / foot of the ladder in a 2 man carry should anounce it so as you are approaching the building there is no confusion as to where it should be placed, and also so it cant get put upside down. That could never happen lol

Dear Captain Benz,

Climbing a ladder can be awkward for some. Add tools to the equation and it can be really awkward. Both hands on the ladder is obviously the safest way to go. What I like to do is hook the tool(s) to the rung at my furthest reach, then proceed up the ladder and repeat the process until I reach my destination(you vertically challenged guys will have to repeat the process more than I will). If your have a tool that cannot be hooked securely (ie. flat head axe), I carry an over-sized aluminum carabiner clipped to my flashlight strap. Just slide the tool in, handle first, and viola'- hands free again. You can also use a 20'- 24' piece of 1" tubular webbing and create a sling. You would still need the over-sized carabiner.

Love Dragon

Edited by dragonrescue
x129K likes this

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When I'm 2nd due ladder and I park behind the 1st due, I make sure i can see his rear tandem tires which gives enough room to pull a ladder of their truck. But, I don't sacrifice not being able to use my Ladder if I know I can shoot the building as well.

This works for me when I'm 1st due. I drive a rear mount stick and as I pull up to place the turntable (Off passenger side only) I look out the rear jumpseat window and what I see at around the curb is pretty close to where the turntable will line up. This will only work if you are at the right distance away from building.

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Stokes baskets....or keep one in your gear...

Fashion a loop [or four] of 1 inch webbing that's about 3 feet lying flat [doubled]. Girth hitch one to a handle in each corner of the basket. For confined situations or vertical changes, the straps can be fed forward to other rescuers for stabilization. On a straight carry, throw the strap back over the shoulder, around the neck and down to the outside hand. Now the load can be balanced across the back and give the inside arm a rest. It also lets you pass a basket forward before letting go entirely. Much safer. [cave trick]

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Chian/Rope and a clip to put around the door nob for door control when you pop it open so the red stuff don't get into the hallway.

2" wide paint/spackle knife to use as a shove knife/slim jim for windows and door locks.

A visegrip and a chain/rope to put on pad locks when using the SAW.

Golf balls for venting hard to reach windows inside or outside use.

Great topic.

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also for you ems folks i am sure one of you could start the same kind of topic and get a million street smart tips to share

pump ops

I teach that the pump operator needs to know the following;

what nozzle is attached fog / smooth bore 100/50 psi

what size line

street friction loss

15 lbs per 100' 2.5' approx 250gpm

20 lbs per 100' 2" approx 180-200 gpm

30 lbs per 100' 1.75" approx. 150 gpm

how many lengths

any head press to deal with

what outlet is it attached

only then can you come up with a pump pressure that will be in the ballpark to assist you

i cringe when i am @ the fire academy and ask the MPO what are you pumping at and I get a number, and when asked how did you get it, the response is we always pump that.

unless of course i left out a step above

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Golf balls for venting hard to reach windows inside or outside use.

Great topic.

Would you use a 9 iron or a pitching wedge ? :lol: Sorry had to.......

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At a recent search and rescue drill i found that if you take a dog leash in with you and your partner it works well with the search. you clip one end of the leash to your partners pack and put your hand through the loop of the leach at the other end. this gives you a 5-6 foot distance between both of you but also gives you the safety that is you don't feel tension on the leash your holding, you know something has happened with your partner.

Not to toss a negative into an otherwise positive thread, but I feel this warrants a word of caution. I'd be highly skeptical of using a dog leash or anything "clipped" to another person. If something happens to the partner with the loop like falling into a hole the FF with the clipped on end will not be able to release it. Similarly if there was a localized collapse between the two of you. A similar tactic can be to use a piece of webbing/line that each of you holds the end of. I'd be very careful clipping anything that could not be immediately released, under emergency conditions. At 5-6 ft. I think I 'd prefer to verbally communicate, as anything of any weight, even a coffee table or kitchen chair, will slow you up as you are forced to come together and figure out how to pass. There are times when "buddy lines" should be used and others where they can be trouble.
x129K, waful and efdcapt115 like this

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Chian/Rope and a clip to put around the door nob for door control when you pop it open so the red stuff don't get into the hallway.

2" wide paint/spackle knife to use as a shove knife/slim jim for windows and door locks.

A visegrip and a chain/rope to put on pad locks when using the SAW.

Golf balls for venting hard to reach windows inside or outside use.

Great topic.

CPAGE, Wrapping something around door knobs for door control is not a great practice anymore. There have been incidents where guys have been hung up on the strap bailing out and have closed the door on other brothers behind them trying to evacuate. Use of a tool would be better. Adz end of the Haligan around the leading edge. If you can't reach the leading edge with the adz the fork between the back edge and the hindge, with a quick flip will work also. Not sure about the golf ball thing. I would hate to be hit with that if you missed!

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CPAGE, Wrapping something around door knobs for door control is not a great practice anymore. There have been incidents where guys have been hung up on the strap bailing out and have closed the door on other brothers behind them trying to evacuate. Use of a tool would be better. Adz end of the Haligan around the leading edge. If you can't reach the leading edge with the adz the fork between the back edge and the hindge, with a quick flip will work also. Not sure about the golf ball thing. I would hate to be hit with that if you missed!

It is not left around the kob once you get in it comes off. The way I said is for the door pop if the fire takes off or wind driven out the door on to you and your crew.

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bob,

How about color code on gasoline power equipment. EXAMPLE everything on straight gas gets marked with a band of green electrical tape, everything with mix(gas & oil) yellow tape, the gas can itself also needs the corresponding color code. I have seen guy's try to read 2 exact size gas cans that somone marked with black marker 1 gas oil the other gas, very difficult to make out at night. Just a good 11/2 inch band should do the trick

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It is not left around the kob once you get in it comes off. The way I said is for the door pop if the fire takes off or wind driven out the door on to you and your crew.

It's very easy to forget to take it off. It's best just to stay to the side and low using a tool. It was a good idea, before guys got jammed up. Just passing on safety information....

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I thought of a couple more.

When possible, have different colored hydraulic lines for your hydraulic extrication tools. If you have only one color, use different colored tape on the ends of each line so you can ID which one is which.

Always open your SCBA cylinder all the way.

Carry a spray bottle of a soap and water mix to help find gas leaks.

Remember to zero out gas meters before turning them off after each use!

When searching with a Halligan, keep the tool down with the adz and point on the floor. The gap will leave room for your hand without it snagging on the floor.

Fiberglass and even wood and some metal handles on hand tools can be a pain in the arse, try putting a D-handle or wrap small rope around it then cover it with hockey tape. Works great.

(Here's a picture of some of our tools.)

Officerside_Above_Rear_Wheel.jpg

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Want to develop that light touch with your extrication jaws? Get a dozeen eggs and try picking them up without breaking them.

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One quick one before the second half of OSHA...

If your nozzles have pistol grips, get used to being the lineman without using the pistol grip, and extending the nozzle an arms length away from you, but not too far so that you cannot operate the bale. A lot of people will say that is the proper way to handle a hose, some will disagree, just my .02.

Everyone stay safe!

Oh, and inspect your nozzles, they are just as important as SCBA and other equipment, but often are passed over for frequent inspection.

Edited by FiftyOnePride
efdcapt115 likes this

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I've had many people ask me how my crew knew what to do given a choice had to be made. The simple answer is as I size up with my crew inbound, I use hand and arm signals for my crew. I have a few basic signals for what size ladder is needed, to move faster because someone is hanging from the window ledge or to stay in place and await further orders. And even yes the broken arrow signal (when the stuff hits the fan). This leaves the radio free for the IC to issue orders. It takes the edge off the din of battle. Let me make it clear, if I see something all need to know I transmit it for everyones safety.

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From my learning as a fire explorer, and from seeing things done a certain way, I have noticed that many departments do not choose the correct sized line for the fire at hand. Pulling and 1.75 on a fully involed house is not the smartest move. Choosing the correct sized line...IMO...can make the difference between losing a house and saving it. Size up is a key to having the proper sized line.

FE Capt.

Matt. D

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What personal light weight tools do you carry and do they have multiple uses?

Items that I carry and use almost every tour of duty:

Helmet (rubber strap)

• Wood door chocks

o

Propping open doors

o
Sprinkler wedge

o

Creating a gap when forcing doors alone

• Common 10d nails

o

Propping open doors (light weight & inexpensive to replace)

• Back up flashlight

• Picture of my wife & kids (taped inside)

o

Reminds not to get complacent

Coat

• Pocket mask (inside pocket)

• Medical gloves (stored in pocket mask)

• Short 25’ utility rope

o

Team search

o

Hoisting/lowering tools

o

General lashing

• 24’ of 1” tubular webbing

o

Stored inside a medical glove to keep dry

o

Too many uses to mention

o

Will post something on that later

• Safety glasses (Borkes are cool but don’t protect you)

• Keys clipped to coat

o

Metro North RR

o

Fireman service

o

Firehouse

Pants (Class 2 harness & bailout system/ pre-rigged)

(Left pocket)

• “Through the lock” multi tool (Swiss army style) which includes:

o

Key tool

o

5/32” square tool (fox & police locks)

o

Shove knife

o

Screw driver (Philips & flat head)

Large “Robo Grip” channel lock (multiple uses)

(Right pocket)

• Utility knife, heavy duty side cutter, medical shears

o I keep them in my right pocket for escape reasons. Easier access during low profile & full escape SCBA procedures.

(Over the shoulder)

Main flashlight attached to a quick release strap with an over-sized carabiner for hands free tool carrying and mechanical advantage use.

I also carry 2 pairs of utility gloves. One for rope jobs and one for extrication purposes. Don't use one pair for both!

Hopefully I didn't leave anything out. Always looking for input on this, so I can lighten the load.

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I love to see a pair of vise grips used for garage door control and then use a hook to pull the power cord just at the end of the door in the ceiling.

Also where you see the power wires entering the house, by code their has to be a means of disconnect within 10 feet of that point weather a main panel or a fused disconnect and in most cases the rest of the utility's are right near that, gas and water. But not always.

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Want to develop that light touch with your extrication jaws? Get a dozeen eggs and try picking them up without breaking them.
Good one.

If you have a light touch, the next drill involves the egg and a cutting tourch. I like mine scrambled, but in this case you win if you can hard boil them.

Great topic

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Good Thread Capt Benz

Here's a post I put out on a seemingly good thread that died rapidly. I thought it fit this thread as a fireground tip. Hpoefully, you are in a FD thata allows anyone to make this kind of call, and not have to wait for a Chief.

"Having not answered your initial questions. let me at least share a rule of thumb told to me many years ago by a FDNY DC. He called it the 20-minute rule and has always worked for me.

When do you call for a 2nd Alarm On Arrival?

More than 2 Windows

More than one floor

More than 20 min.

The 20 min Rule briefly explained:

More than 2 windows: For the most part, a single room will have one or two windows. Fire showing beyond that indicates that this might be more than your 1 alarm room and contents job.

More than 1 floor: Obviously, this fire is on the move and will require more resources than you have on hand.

More than 20 min: If you don't believe that the fire can be completely put out in under 20 min, transmit the 2nd. Why 20 min? Because that's how long a SCBA (and the hardworking person wearing it) will last. Without incoming manpower, you would have to stop work on thf firefight to rehab/refill.

And, while I'm at it, heres my own rule of thumb on SOP's, SOG's, and other rules of thumb:

1. Keep it simple. If it's simple, you might remember it under pressure. If it's complicated you won't.

2.Keep it flexible. Or else it won't fit your next incident"

jayhalsey, jd783, BFD1054 and 2 others like this

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When it gets to the time of the year for annual personal equipment inspection, put a loaded mousetrap in each coat pocket when you go off shift. They'll only try to "borrow" once. :lol:

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Excellent topic! I've picked up a few things and hope this is a decent contribution.

One of my officers told me to keep up on tying knots. It's an easily forgettable skill and you don't want to be the guy fumbling around trying to tie a knot when it needs to get done immediately. I keep a 10' piece of rope with my gear and practice with gloves on and eyes closed.

Edited by rickperry99
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Fiberglass and even wood and some metal handles on hand tools can be a pain in the arse, try putting a D-handle or wrap small rope around it then cover it with hockey tape. Works great.

How do you go about inspecting your tools for fatigue or damage? Regularly replace the tape?

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