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The Great Cribbing Debate

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Since plastic cribbing came about, it seems that this is one debate with a lot of mixed feelings. Personally I prefer wood over plastic - less slipping is the main reason - and would like to carry nothing but wood.

So, please feel free to give me your thoughts / opinions of wood vs. plastic cribbing.

And while we're at it, let's discuss all of the cribbing types and methods and see if we can't get an informative discussion going here.

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I also prefer wood....

Less Slippage

Very easy to "modify" at a scne if need be

Soft, so items can "bite" into it.

Replacment available pretty much 24/7

Has any experienced or know if it is possible, if two peices of plastic composite cribbing can generate static eletricity ? If so, that could be BAD.

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I also prefer the wood cribbing, it grips better, easy and cheap to replace and can be modified to fit in your truck and carried any style you wish. The plastics may be easier to clean, but they are expensive and are too slippery. They have the grip tape to put on them but I still prefer the wood chocks.

I prefer the step chocks for ease and rapid deployment at car accidents, and they can be made easy enough with some 2X8 pressure treated lumber and some old rope or seat belts for a handle. The box cribbing works well for special rescues requiring good stabilization. But now with the rescue struts they have and other rescue sets its getting easier to stabilize a vehicle at 2 am in the blizzard conditions.

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In the beginning of the year Rescue 30 had all of its cribbing replaced with wood and most of the composite went to Engine 240. The step chocks work great, and we have not had a problem with using it as box cribbing. The rescue is now equipped with a various amount of step chocks, 8x8, 6x6, 4x4, 2x4, and wedges. Along with the Res-Q-Jack struts we have had a great amount of success with stabilizing vehicles. The 8x8 and 6x6 have ropes going through them, while the 4x4, 2x4, chocks, and wedges have webbing attached.

x129K hit all my points with wood over plastic.

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I also prefer wood cribbing for the main reason all mentioned, slipping. Even when they added the texture to it, it would still slip somewhat. I also have had 2 occassions where it melted from coming into contact with hot car components. One of the single most important features of wood as a brother brought up in a previous post was the ability to cut the cribbing as needed.

A seperate issue I noticed with some departments as they bought the plastic was they limited the amount of cribbing they carried to the lot of plastic sizes they bought. Many of us are not running with enough cribbing and I see less and less departments with long sections of 4 x 4's for unique cribbing applications and roll overs. Also I don't know if anyone else has noticed or had starting experiencing what seems to be an over dependance on step chocks. While they are great in many applications they are not the end all be all and I see all too often where they are put down to the very top "step" and the vehicle is still more on its suspension then the cribbing, where a good box crib with wedges would be more appropriate.

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I don't recall who it was or where it was, but I remember being taught that in some applications, turning the step cribbing upside down is a good way to stabilize a vehicle too. Something along the lines that it works quicker and has more contact with the vehicle. I think.....

2413 - Got any photos of your cribbing you can share?

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Though I have used wood for all my service in rescues, I think a combination of wood and plastic should be used because of different scenarios can happen. Stability is the same and maintenance is the same. You get body fluids on wood, you have to destroy it where as heavy plastic can be easily deconed. Slippage, I believe wood is better against it. Plastic doesn't rot compared to wood. There area pros and cons to everything but having a good variety makes the job and "what to uses" decision a little bit easier. better to have more tools in the bang that saying wish I had it.

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Sorry for the slow response 585... im just getting around to uploaded the pictures off the camera. I have three pictures of the cribbing on Rescue 30. Most of the cribbing is in the driver side rear wheel well compartment. All of the 6x6, 4x4, 2x4, and step chocks are in there. The 8x8s are located in the belly compartments. Off the top of my head I would say we have:

8- 8x8

36- 6x6

28- 4x4

28- 2x4

8- step chocks

All the 6x6s are behind the chocks, and the 4x4s and 2x4s are double stacked. I'm still working on a way to secure them better. I was thinking of having some type of net to hold them in place while moving.

Special thanks to x655 for making these compartments possible...

post-1655-1224091289.jpg

post-1655-1224091295.jpg

post-1655-1224091299.jpg

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Thanks for the photos!

I guess that x655 kid is OK after all....

:P

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wood is way better its cheaper and more sturdy than plastic and easy to replace

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I don't recall who it was or where it was, but I remember being taught that in some applications, turning the step cribbing upside down is a good way to stabilize a vehicle too. Something along the lines that it works quicker and has more contact with the vehicle. I think.....

We have a few guys who prefer to do it that way (flipping the Step Chock over so the steps are on the bottom.

I personally believe in using them right side up as you have a small platform that the vehicle actually sits on which also provides MORE contact area with the vehicle than upside down.

Flipping it upside down really only creates a Large Wedge with Teeth on the bottom and lessens the contact area with the vehicle. It may have a better bite to the roadway, but more of a chance to slip at the vehicle because it has a fairly significant angle to it.

Anyone ?

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